STEWART, BC - HYDER, AK - JULY 20 - 24

LEAVING ALASKA
July 20th we left Fairbanks to start our journey back to Wisconsin.  We spent the next three days traveling all day and made 1 night stops in Tok, AK; Haines Jct., YT; and Watson Lake, YT.

BUCKLE UP BUTTERCUP

Areas of road built over permafrost and swampy land are a recipe for super-sized frost heaves and broken pavement; road repair in this part of the country never ends.  By far, one of the worst frost-heaved, mini-rollercoaster sections of road was between Tok and Haines Jct.  The motorhome's windshield is getting nicked and dinged by flying gravel, and the Jeep's windshield got cracked some time during those three days.

BACK TO ALASKA

July 23rd we got off the Alaska Highway in the Yukon Territory and headed south on  Cassiar Highway to the end of scenic highway 37a.  I never get tired of seeing snowcapped mountains and waterfalls cascading down the mountainsides, and this drive had it all.  At the end of the gorgeous drive through steep-walled Bear River Canyon, the town of Stewart, British Columbia appeared and around the toe of a mountain is the town of Hyder, Alaska.  

These two towns are in a valley nestled between rugged mountains of the Coastal Range and are at the head of the Portland Canal, a narrow 90 mile long, saltwater fjord which forms a natural boundary between Canada and the United States.

Stewart, B.C. has a population of 700, and services include a grocery store, gas station, hotel, restaurants, clinic/hospital, and school.  Hyder, AK, "The Friendliest Almost Ghost Town" has a population of 100, a U.S. post office, an artist studio, a bar, The Seafood Bus (food truck), a campground and several abandoned falling down business buildings and homes.  Citizens of Hyder go to Stewart for shopping, medical care and school; I'm not quite sure how that works with medical care and school.  Something else unique here, there's no U.S. Customs and Border Control Station entering the U.S. at Hyder, although there is a Canadian Customs and Border control when leaving Hyder and entering Canada. 

The town has a lot of character and characters including this ATV.

CLOWN CAR - PART 2

One of our camping neighbors at Hyder's Run-A-Muck Campground were a father/son duo from Florida; dad was 45-ish and the son was in his 20's.  The morning after they pulled in, I saw dad stretching beside the car and I also noticed there was no tent set up on their site.  I had to ask, "Do you sleep in the car?"  Dad replied with a chuckle, "Yes, we do", and invited me over to see their set up.  It was pretty impressive that not only did these two grown men drive from Flordia to Alaska in this little car with all their gear, but managed to sleep in it too! 

SO, WHAT'S THE BIG ATTRACTION IN HYDER?
Fish Creek

About 4/12 miles up the road from Run-A-Muck is the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Area. This part of the creek is operated by the U.S. Forest Service as a day use recreation area and has a gated boardwalk that runs above the creek.  Fish creek is a spawning ground for some of the world's largest chum salmon, and when the salmon are running it's a popular fishing hole for grizzly and black bears to fatten up before their winter hibernation.  

The boardwalk provides a safe viewing area where visitors from all over the world come to watch this annual event.

The salmon were just starting their spawning run, and a beaver dam downstream was slowing their progress, which meant few fish = few bears.  We stopped 3 times during the day and a couple of the times had just missed seeing a few bears in the creek.  Although it was disappointing not to see the bears catching fish, we did see a bald eagle teaching her two babies how to fish the creek.

ON OUR WAY TO SEE SALMON GLACIER

Driving further up the mountain from Fish Creek we spotted this black bear cub.

Mining and logging are the main economy of the area.  This is a view of Premier Mine.

Salmon Glacier boarders Alaska and British Columbia, and is the 5th largest glacier in North America.  .

It was a different glacial experience looking down on this massive ice flow.

During the summer, Keith Scott, aka "The Bear Man", camps at this observation point, only going to town once a week for groceries.  The Bear Man sells his photographs/post cards, books, and DVD's of the glacier and bears, and he was an interesting guy to talk to about Salmon Glacier.

Although we've been warned about drinking water from the streams, Jim couldn't resist tasting the crystal clear ice-cold snow-melt water running down the mountain.  It turned out ok, he didn't get sick.  



  

FAIRBANKS, NORTH POLE, ARCTIC CIRCLE July 16 - 20

FAIRBANKS 

Fairbanks is 125 miles north of Denali in the heart of Alaska's interior.  With a population of just over 30,000,  the city is an eclectic mix of old and new buildings, and riotous  displays of flower gardens and baskets.

Flowers love the 22 hours of sunlight in mid-summer,
and Alaskans love the bright colors after a long dark winter.

We set up our base camp at the Riverview RV Park, and within 20 minutes of arriving I stepped in a hole and twisted/sprained my foot.  Pain, ice, ibuprofen, whining and heavy drinking followed as I limped along for the next few days.  Our exploring Fairbanks was limited to non-walking/hiking activities.

YES, THERE IS A SANTA CLAUS, AND HE LIVES IN NORTH POLE
The motto of North Pole, AK, is "Where Everyday is Christmas".  The streetlight poles are red and white striped and look like candy canes, decorated christmas trees and lights adorn homes and yards, and the post office receives millions of letters to Santa every year.

Excitement builds as we arrived at the Santa Claus House!

Oh, the disappointment; he wasn't there.
Santa was busy in his workshop so we didn't get to visit with him.

RIVERBOAT DISCOVERY
A ride on the sternwheeler Riverboat Discovery on the Chena and Tenana Rivers was a great way to see more of the area and learn about Fairbanks history.  The 3/12 hour narrated tour included a stop at Trail Breaker Kennels, and a guided walking tour at a frontier Native Athabaskan village.

   

The Captain of this sternwheeler is 4th generation of the Binkley family to run boats on these rivers.  Her great grandfather started a freight business delivering supplies up and down the rivers.  In the 1950's, her grandfather and grandmother started the tour boat business.  The Binkley family tradition and business continue to thrive.

Parked in front of this riverfront home was a boat and float plane.  Because there are relatively few roads in Alaska, 78% of the population hold a pilot's license.  The small bush planes landing gear can be changed from wheels or pontoons in the summer, to wheels or skis in the winter.

The riverboat stopped along the river shore at Trail Breaker Kennels.  This kennel breeds and trains champion sled dogs and continues the legacy of Susan Butcher (1954-2006).  Susan was 4 time winner of the Iditarod Sled Dog Race, and team member of the first dog sled assent of Denali.  She was the inspiration for the saying "Alaska, where men are men, and women win the Iditarod!"  Susan's daughter, Tekla, spoke of sled dog training and the breed's characteristics.  She then gave a demonstration mushing the dog team while riding on an engine-less ATV around a track at 20 mph.  Those dogs love to run!  

The boat docked at a replica Athabaskan Native Village where we took a short walking tour. Guided by Native high-school and college students, who were also working as crew on the boat, they shared personal stories of their families and ancestors.  Our guide modeling this beautiful parka, described the different furs used in this vintage cold weather survival gear.

At a typical summer fish camp, a fish wheel in the river collects chum salmon that is processed, dried, then smoked.  The dried smoked fish will be an important protein source for working sled dogs in the winter.  Sockeye and King salmon are also caught, dried, and smoked for human consumption.

WE CROSSED THE ARCTIC CIRCLE!

Thinking it would be a great adventure to drive the Dalton Highway (aka The Haul Road) to Prudhoe Bay and dip our toes into the Arctic Ocean I started doing a little research.  We ended up nixing that idea after finding out the 500 mile one-way trip would take 3 days, and due to road conditions and lack of services along the way, we would need to take along 2 full-size spare tires, extra cans of gas, as well as extra food and water.  We're adventurous, but not that much!  So, instead we opted to drive to the Arctic Circle, take a picture, and go back to Fairbanks the same day. 

The "Haul Road" is usually a lonely and desolate place through the Alaska Tundra. 

The 48 inch diameter, 800 mile long Alaska Pipeline carries crude oil from Prudhoe Bay to the marine terminal in Valdez, and for much of the way is visible from the highway.

Another view of the pipeline snaking it's way to Valdez.

Crossing the Yukon river, saw a sign that read "GAS".  To be on the safe side, we decided to top off the tank at a whopping $5.49/gallon; and we were glad we did!

We stopped at "The Hot Spot" for lunch.  If you've seen the TV show "Ice Road Truckers", this is where they stop for a bite to eat...or so the owner says.  

We crossed the imaginary line that is the Arctic Circle 155 miles north of Fairbanks.  Driving another 20 miles north, we stopped for a view of the Brooks Range at Gobblers Nob, then turned around to head back to Fairbanks.  It was a great day; no flat tires, and we didn't run out of gas.

CHENA HOT SPRINGS

While the ice, ibuprofen, essential oils, healing touch, and alcohol were helping my sprained foot, I figured a dip in mineral rich hot springs might be the cure.  We drove the scenic 56 miles from Fairbanks to Chena Hot Springs Resort and immersed ourselves in the natural healing waters.  While it didn't seem to do much for my hurting foot, Jim's aching knee made a miraculous recovery and the next day he was running around like a 50 year old!

TALKEETNA and DENALI - JULY 10 -15

TALKEETNA - July 10
After spending a couple nights back in Anchorage, we headed north to Denali National Park.  Getting off the Parks Highway we stopped for a night on the southern edge of Denali, about 120 miles south of the Park entrance, in the quaint village of Talkeetna.  This little town is a base for rafting trips, flight-seeing tours, and is a train stop for the Alaskan Railroad tours.

Funky painted moose added to the colorful character of Talkneeta.

Lunch at the Wildflower Cafe was so delicious, we went back for dinner.

Our campsite at the Talkeetna Camper Park backed up next to the train station.  The noise from the trains rumbling down the tracks as they arrived and departed as well as the whistles blowing was deafening, all we could do was put our hands over our ears and laugh.  

DENALI

DENALI or McKINLEY?
The mountain called Denali was named by the native Athabaskan and means The Tall One in their native language.  In 1896, a  prospector, who supported presidential candidate, William McKinley, unofficially changed the mountain's name in honor of McKinley.  The U.S. government officially changed the name from Denali to McKinley in 1917 to commemorate President McKinley who was President from 1897 until his assassination in 1901.  In 1975, the Sate of Alaska requested the U.S. government officially change the name back to Denali, as was the common name used in Alaska.  After Congress (led by McKinley's home state of Ohio delegation) continuously blocked the State of Alaska's request for reinstatement of the name Denali, President Barak Obama, in 2015, announced the name would be officially changed to Denali on all Federal documents.

Denali National Park is celebrating it's 100th year anniversary.  Rising 20,310 feet above sea level, snow covered Denali is the crown jewel of the Alaska Range and the majestic center piece of this 6 million acre National Park and Preserve.  We were lucky to get a view of "The Tall One" the day we drove into Talkeetna as it's not every day "the mountain is out".

THE PARK
Our campsite at the Denali Grizzly Bear RV Park was 6 miles south of the Park entrance.  The road through the Park is 92 miles long and private vehicles are restricted to the first 15 miles.  The best way to see the interior of the Park is to ride a shuttle or tour bus, or by hiking or biking.  

We booked an 11 hour bus ride to Wonder Lake.

Our tour started at 5:15 a.m., with our bus driver giving commentary about the area's history as well as the wildlife we could expect to see.  His monotone voice suggested he missed his calling as a golf commentator.  Since he would be watching the road, we were told to yell "STOP" when we spotted any wildlife.  We did stop several times and saw sheep, caribou, a grizzly bear, fox, a wolf, arctic ground squirrels, and rabbits.

This arctic ground squirrel seemed to have a foot fetish for Jim's boot. 

It was exciting to see this wolf so close to our bus.

Jim got horney on the 11 hour bus trip.

Haze in the air is smoke blowing in from the Kenai wild fires.

In addition to the wildlife, the rivers, lakes, wildflowers and tundra were beautiful.

Checking out the views at Wonder Lake.

JIM GETS IN THE ACT

Across the highway from our campground was a resort with a dinner theatre presenting "Alaska Cabin Nite".

After filling up on a family style dinner of ribs, salmon, and all the fixings, the actors/waiters entertained us with singing, skits, and storytelling.

With a shortage of actors for all the parts in the Gold Miner skit, Jim got in the act playing the part of a prospector who not only finds gold, but gets a gold digger bride ta-boot! 

HIKING
Armed with bear spray, we hiked trails to explore more of the Park. 

This big mama moose and her 2 calfs strolled through the forest along our hiking trail.

 

Morning hikes along the Nenana river were a perfect way to start the day.

KEEP EXPLORING

Our adventure is far from over, so we will keep exploring!

KENAI PENINSULA - June 27 - July 8

Located on the Kenai Peninsula between the busy harbor towns of Homer and Seward is the town of Sterling where we spent 8 long rainy nights at the almost empty Alaska Canoe and Campground.  This wasn't the loveliest, or liveliest place we've been to in Alaska, but it served our purpose of having a campsite with electric and water over the 4th of July holiday and was a central location from which to take day trips to explore the Kenai Peninsula.  While it rained most of the week, we battled cabin-fever by visiting small town museums in the area.

KENAI FJORDS AND SEWARD

On our day trip to Seward, we stopped at the Kenai Fjords National Park Exit Glacier Area.  Buried under over 1,000 feet of ice is a mountain range covered by the Harding Ice Field.  Of the 38 glaciers flowing from the ice field, Exit Glacier is the only one that can be reached by road.

We hiked the trail to the glacier; year signs mark the progress of the receding glacier.  It's difficult to get the perspective from pictures on the size of Exit Glacier and the river below.  It was huge!

KENAI CITY - July 4th
The relentless rain cleared out for most of July 4th.  Wearing a fleece jacket, jeans, and wool socks, we watched the 4th of July parade in Kenai City.  I missed seeing fireworks, but it's pointless to shoot off fireworks when the sky never gets dark this time of the year.  We were told the firework displays at Christmas and New Years are spectacular!

Miss Alaska was excited to see us at the parade. 

Kenai Borough mayor candidate float was big, patriotic and colorful. 

Chickens, turkeys, goats, and sheep paraded with the 4-H Club.

HOMER
The town of Homer extends from the mountain foothills to the tip of the spit of land that juts out into the Kachemak Bay.  We spent one night at Bayview RV park located 9 miles above Homer.

The view of Kachemak Bay from the campground was gorgeous.

HOMER SPIT CAMPGROUND
The Homer Spit Campground is located a the end of the road with a large boat harbor on one side and the Bay on the other side.  With numerous restaurants, gift shops, and concessions for sightseeing and fishing charters, the area is a hub of activity.  Like most campgrounds in Alaska, the campsites are tight, close and small; this one was no exception.

The Clown Car
A few hours after we set up camp, a family of 5 pulled into the site next to us.  As mom, dad, 2 teenagers, and 1 tween unfolded themselves from the car the kids were whining, "OMG, I can't feel my legs!  I hate this car.  Why can't we get a camper like they have?"  Mom, ignoring them or answering "just shut your ******* mouth", was not a happy camper.  Knowing immediately this would be entertaining, we grabbed a beer and watched discreetly from inside our rig as they continuously removed an impossible amount of gear from the small car; we dubbed it "The Clown Car".

How they packed themselves, 2 tents, tarps, sleeping bags, pillows, groceries, fishing poles, clothing and a couple of chairs into that car remains an impressive and amazing mystery.

Otter
While walking the beach in front of the campground we noticed a gathering of people watching a sea otter swimming and floating close to shore.  As it got closer to the beach we saw it was rubbing it's stomach area and some of the group speculated it was a female giving  birth.  After awhile, the exhausted looking sea otter got out of the water and laid on the beach.  It was clear the poor thing was distressed and either injured, giving birth, or sick.  A call was made to the U.S. Wildlife Service to report there was an animal in trouble.

After dinner we walked back to the beach to check in on the otter.  A volunteer and college intern from the Wildlife Service had arrived, set up a boundary to warn people to stay back, then sat on the beach observing the sea otter while making sure no one disturbed it.   The intern told us the otter was an adult male.  The next morning the intern, volunteer, and sea otter were no longer on the beach and we assume it wasn't a happy ending.

SELDOVIA

Waiting to board the Seldovia Ferry in Homer.

Seldovia is a quiet picturesque waterfront village that can only be reached by boat or airplane.  While on the 45 minute ferry ride from Homer to Seldovia we passed private and commercial fishing boats, forested rocky islands, and had views of glaciers on the snowcapped volcanic mountains that make up the Pacific Ring of Fire.   We also spotted  a humpback whale and sea otters.  

The town is decorated with several beautiful wood carvings. 

A stroll along the Historic Boardwalk of Seldovia was lovely.

Early Russian influence helped shape Seldovia.  St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church was built in 1891,  "St. Nicholas is known to keep close watch on Seldovia's fishermen and sea farers - bringing prosperity, peace and safety."

The economy of Seldovia has changed over the years.  Fur trade ended with the lack of demand for furs during the Great Depression.  It then became an important commercial fish canning port until the 1964 Great Alaskan Earthquake destroyed the canneries.  Seldovia's economy now relies on tourism and fishing charters.